Shangri-la to Litang

Route information: www.betzgi.ch

 

Shangri-La to Pushang :February 11 (60 km) 

Contrairement à mes appréhensions, petite journée facile. Avant le col, une maman chien me charge férocement avec son petit. Je suis pris de panique puisque je me souviens subitement de toutes ces attaques de chiens que j’ai eu précedemment lors de mon premier voyage au Tibet. Cette fois-ci, je suis seule… Important, si un chien vous attaques, ne tenté jamais de vous sauver !Il faut généralement arrêter brusquement et lui faire face. Elle me chag à plusieurs fois mais arrête toujours à quelques mètres de moi. Ma technique semble fonctionner encore à nouveau. Tout de même, j’ai les jambes toute molle. Ouffff !!! Dans la descente, je me retourne et je l’appercois qui me court avec son petit et un autre chien à vive allure. J’ai le temps, j’accélere. Le col est à 3500 mètres seulement soit seulement 200 mètres de plus que Sangri-la. Donc, pas trèes difficile. Ensuite, plus de 20 km de descente pour attendre Pushang. La route est en très mauvais état mais j’ADORE ! Je me sens à l’aventure. J’arrête pour diner dans un petit resto local (tres tres tres tres local)…Le fils ne parle pas anglais. Il semble s’inquiéter que je voyage seule. Il appele au téléphone sa soeur qui parle très bien anglais pour voir si j’ai besoin d’aide.  J’apporte le restant du repas dans mon termos comme ça, j’aurai ps à cuisiner ce soir s’il fait froid. Le soir, je rejoins Pushang. Une jeune fille de 18 ans m’invite à passer la nuit chez elle avec sa mère et sa grand-mère. Elle semble surprise de mon acquiessement lorsque j’accepte son invitation pour passer la nuit dans sa famille. Elle saute de joie et lance la nouvelle à tout le monde sur la place public. J’assiste le soir à la pratique de dance des filles du village à l’école pour le nouvel an tibetain. Je suis émue et la goutte à l’oeil, contente d’être de retour sur le sol Tibetain, endroit si fort en émotions et contrastes. Je suis heureuse de revivre une seconde fois cette aventure et cette fois-ci, seule. Voyager seul est magique. Un sentiment de liberté et de connection incroyable avec l’environnement. Quelque chose qui m’étais hors de pensée et compréhension dans mon premier voyage. Quelque chose d’essentiel maintenant !
Beau souper en famille. Apres le souper, la mère se contorsionne de douleur. La mère est pleine de courbatures et elle a très très mal au dos. J’examine rapidement…houlala…. Il travaille fort c’est Tibetain ! Je lui fais un massage et je recommende à sa fille qui parle un peu anglais d’acheter une balle afin que sa mère puisse se faire ses massages d’elle-même. Je soir, je suis heureuse de dormir à la chaleur  dans la chambre commune avec la mère, la fille et la grand- mère.

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Pushang and over snow mountain: February 12 (50 km…)

Belle monté de 1000 metres sur 25 km sur pente mderé. Je fais cete ascension sans trop de difficult. Le col (sommet le plus haut de la route se situe à plus de 3900 metres. Je me sens en pleine forme. Je mets seulement une demi-journée pour monter au sommet du col. Plus difficile vers la fin puisque l’oxygène se rarifie à cette altitude. Je ne suis pas encore acclimatée. Dans la montée, je surprends trois jeunes garcons de moins de 12 ans qui se dirigent au même col (point le plus haute de la route) que moi. Je suis consternée et en admiration. Sans baggages et seulement une petit sac de nourriture au bout du guidon, il compte traverser la montagne !!!! Je les entends rire à distance, faire des courses entre eux…Ils tentent de me rattrapper mais l’essouflement les gagne. Je les perds de vue…Mais ou vont-ils !!!!!!!!!!! J’espère que tout va bien pour eux…Est ce que c est moi qui est sur équipée !!! L’écart entre nous augmente rapidement et ils ne sont pas du tout équipés.

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Au sommet, la temperature est encore confortable ( c’est qd meme l’hiver ;). Je m’habille tout de même très chaudement pour éviter d’être malade. C’est pas le temps !!! Je sors tout juste d’une grippe. Longue descente de plus de 20 km… J’ai faim….Ya beaucoup de passsages avec de la neige qui ralentisse ma descente. Ca m’épuise !!!!
Arrivé au village vers 18h rs, je trouve encore un petite resto sous la tente. Je mange une bonne soupe. Le soir, je pose ma tente chez des gens. On ne m’invite pas à entrer chez eux…mais, j’avais aussi dit au resto que je voulais dormir tôt et ce dans ma tente puisque j’étais très fatiguée. On m’apporte de l’eau chaude pour me laver. Une fille du village m’apporte un AUTRE bon plat de riz chaud. Je me couche vers 20 hrs. On me réveille vers 21 hrs et passe sous la tente de bons petits pains chaud.

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Small village to Daxuenshan pass : February 13 (25 km…..) 
Je prens le petit déjeuner au resto ou j’ai mangé hier soir. Les filles pratiquent leurs anglais avec moi. J’apporte le restant de mon repas. Ce sera mon souper. Ascension, ascension, ascension…Journée froide et venteux. Il y a bcp de neige sur la route et la route est en très mauvais état. Je dois pousser souvent le vélo dans la montée à cause la neige et l’altitude. Je garde le sourire….mais j’ai hâte de finir ma journée au chaud dans mon sac de couchage. Toute la journée, j’ai des magnifiques points de vue sur des montagnes enneigées….Je m’arrete quelques Km avant le col. Il est tard. Je veux pas prendre de chance. Je suis responsable ;)—– Le col est à 4300 et je ne suis pas acclimatée à cette altitude. Au Tadjikistan, j’ai eu de gros symptomes de l’altitude à 3500 mètres. Je suis inquiétes de dormir seule ce soir à cette altitude. Pas question que je pose la tente en haut. Je pose ma tente dans une petite cabane abandonnée sur le bord de la route. Ha oui…je me suis fait aussi un nouvel ami. Un pee bottle. Oui, oui…J’urine dedans pendant la nuit au lieu de sortir dehors lorsqu’il fait trop froid. C’est fantastique !!! C’est fatastique…quand tu n’oublies pas de bien refermer le bouchon ;(

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Daxuenshan pass: February 14 (20 km)
This morning, I’m only about 3 to 4 km away of the top of the mountain. However, because of the altitude, I’m still pusing my bike. I have hard time to breath. The top is full of snow with some old car’s tracks. For sure, no one drove here  since few days ! I’m concerned about the others passes further north on the road. There is one at 4700 and another at 4600 meters. Will they be worst !!!! Will I be stuck ! Will I have to come back all the way to Shangri-La.  I’m out of breath pushing my bike down the road because the lack of oxygen and all the snow that is blocking the road. When I’m finally reach the alphalt , the road condition is so bad again ! I’m exhauted !

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Daxuenshan pass to Xiencheng : February 15 (60 km ++)
This morning, I woke up at 10 am and left at at lunch time because I got my first sun ray on the tent at 11 am. This was not the best spot to pitch my tent (sun ray) but it was the only one along this narrow mountain road. This morning, from the feel on my finger, I believe the temperature was about -15 celcius. I had to warm up my hand every minute. However, the temperature always raise significativly during the day. It can get really hot like about 5 degre… Today, I had to ride my bike for another 15 km on this shitty road. Yes SHITTY !!!! Usually, I like riding on dirt roads but….I’m exhausted of this BAD road. Going down at about the same speed I’m climbing…this is something that can make you crazy ! Specially, when it last since the past 2 days. I was also very hungry. I did not ate much ..got bored of my food (dri chineese noodle, chocolate mars bar…). Iate my first meal at 17 hrs at Xiancheng town. A nice wong ton soup !

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Its 19h rs, almost dark and I had not found any good spots to pitch my tent. The narrow road along the river was not suitable for my to put my tent and no one accept that I put my tent on their land…. In Xiencheng, they had some hotels but…NOOOOOO !!!! I’m never in problem…something good should happen….I will find something. So, I kept riding until  dark. Then, a nice little girl went out of her house and cheers me. There we go !!!! I shown her the message in my book, YEEEEE !!!!!!! I spend the evening with the family !

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Xiencheng to pass : February 16
Thank too my host last night. I had a wanderful night !! I had took a shower, I was clean, I had eaten a wanderful dinner yesterday. I was ready to start my day. This is just what I needed because yesterday, I was very exhausted and I was about to cry. My mood was not so good. I needed my energy back because tomorrow, I will have to cross the highest pass (4700 meters).

Today, I have climbed all day. This was not easy but I feel in pretty good shape and my mind was strong. Half way along the way, I have been stop at a police check point. They took my passeport and did a copy of it. They were nice and did not ask too much questions about my journey. I told them I was hungry. I was wandering If they had any places around where I could buy rice . They gave me two big bowls of rice with eggs for free. One of the police told me with sign language : flat belly, difficult to climb, big belly (eaten enough), climb fast. I laught so bad !!!!!

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Tonight, I found a good spot along the road to pitch my tent. Currently, for this section of this trip, a good spot to pitch my tent is a spot that has early sunray in the morning.

Pass to Sangdui :February 17
Few Km below the 4700 meters pass, a very very very agressive (homeless) dog has tried to attack me. Maybe he had Rabis… I have no idea but this dog has attack me very  bad ! This was the most dangerous dog I have ever encounter. Tibetan dog have the reputation to be very very very aggressive. Me and Ben, in my previous trip in Tibet in 2007, have been attack so many by those crasy Bas……. I knew I would face this again. The problem with this dog was that he had no owner. No one could have any control on him. It was him or I…or…this is how I felt this. I was screaming, shouting my life. A mother and girl went out in the street to help me. They trew many rocks at him but the dog was totally fearless. Everytime the distance between them and I was getting bigger, the dog was attack me with a such a big rage !! I had to jump from one side to the other side of my bicycle to be protected from this baster ! Once, he bit my bags. Then, I told myself I was in real problem. The two womens could do absolutly nothing ! Everytime, one of the girl was : GO GO !!! But everytime, I told her (screaming): I can’t not !!!!!! I can not. He will bit me  !!! I had to stay near them to stay safe. Then, I stopped a guy on his motorbike. With gesture, I told him about the dog. He escorted me a little bit uphill and it seems to help. The dog did not came close of us. However, just when I started to feel safe, at about 1 km away from the village and was about to tell him to go, I saw this baster running uphill again toward me. We were far away already !!!! The guy told me to go and he stayed down below to wait for the dog. I just ran, took a rock and a branch. It took a while before the guy came back to me. When he came, he said it was alright now but he could not let me on the road alone. At first, he tie a rope from my bike to his motorbike to pull me up the hill. This was working, it was cool but I was really scared to fall. Then….Can you believe…we have put everything on his motorbike. He brought me on the top on the mountain where I was safe. Thank god !!!!!What would happen If I would have been alone !!!!!

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After the pass, I stop in Sangdui’s village to buy food in a corner shop. No one was cooking any rice dishe which was disapointing. I was dreaming of a nice warm meal. I needed some energy back. I ws cold. In two days, I had climb more than 60 km.

Later, before dawn, I stopped in a temple because I was cold. So nice. They had a ceremony, show…dance…I was the only foreigner.I had seen this type of show previously with Ben when we were in Tibet. I think this was a pre-new year event.

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Sleep along the river just before the high plateau.

Sangdui to Tuer pass: February 18
Horrible night. I have not sleep too much. It was very cold. I woke up 3 x to pee !!!! I was not too happy. I felt asleep only early i the mrning when the temperuture raised a little bit. I woke up at 11 am which was to late for the day I had to do. Today, I had to do two passes above 4600 meters.  I was a bit concern because I did not want to sleep at thiselevation because I have been very cold until now at a lower elevation.  I have a good sleeping bag but I’m using a summer matress that has no insulation and I never dry my sleeping bag during the day…. Today, a bike on a very high elevation plateau (above 4400 meters). The lanscape was different. No mountain around, no house….on ly you, the road and rocks. It was sunny, I had a back wind but… it was very cold ! Late that day, because of my late start, I was scared to get stuck on this plateau for the night. I was little nervous not to find anyone to help me because the cars were rare on the road andmost of the, were going opposite direction. Finally, someone stopped andthe family brought me to the next village that was located 50 km away.  This village was at a much lower altitude (3600 meters). When I got there, I was still very cold and very tired. I stop in a small shop, bought a noodle soup and I made some tea. I stayed in a little hotel for 5 $. I felt I needed this. I needed to me warm for the night and have a good sleep. I spend the evening with the family.

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Jaiwa: February 19
A family in the village has invited me home for breakfast. Had some nice warm little breads stuff with yak meat and tea. Only 30 km away from Litang. Easy day !!! Sunny.
My last pass (4100 meters) 15 km away from Litang. Got photo shots with locals and monks (Lama). A monk gave me his phone number. I’m may call him for a drink in Litang.

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On the way down, I have been invited (or I have invited my self) to a pick-nick with a bunch of mans. I ate some fresh yak flesh (raw meat), delicious !!!! Yummy !!!!
In Litang, I stayed in Peace Gueshouse. Met my french cyclist friends again ! The owner speak english. Located infront of the Potala Inn. At night, the guesshouse’s owner has invited everyone for a big party and dinner (new year)… beers, wine, yak…

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2 réponses à “Shangri-la to Litang

  1. J’suis contente de te relire! Je te suis depuis que t’as commencé ton aventure et j’ai bien aimé te lire en francais – tu écris super bien! On ne se connait pas — je suis une amie de Greg et Melissa Tilley qui t’ont aidé avec ton site web et avaient fait la promotion de ton blog l’an passé. C’est vraiment incroyable ton aventure. J’te trouve super brave de faire ce voyage seule (la majorité du temps) et de faire autant confiance aux gens. Je me réjouis que tout se passe bien et que tu n’aies pas eu de mésaventures. Lâches pas et gardes nous à jour sur tes aventures! Je crois que tu reviens dans la région bientot (si t’es pas déjà revenue) mais continue de poster ton trajet et photos. Natalie

  2. Bonjour Geneviève,
    Mon nom est Pierre de Québec, je suis un passionné de cyclotourisme. J’ai lu ton blog avec intérêt. Merci de partager tes aventures. Je me demandais ce que tu étais devenu depuis ton dernier article?

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